You know that special kind of rage when a cheat code “works for everyone online” and yours just… sits there. No error message. No sparkle. No infinite Rare Candies. Just silence like the code is on a lunch break.
Nine times out of ten, the problem isn’t that the code is “bad.” It’s that the code is speaking the wrong dialect for your device/emulator.
GameShark and Action Replay are basically cousins who look identical in family photos, but they absolutely do not agree on how to say “hello” at the reunion. Same idea (mess with game memory while it runs), different scrambling/encryption depending on version. And yes, some formats will happily let you type the code in… and then do nothing. Which is honestly the most infuriating option.
So let’s fix that.
GameShark vs Action Replay: the plot twist is… it’s mostly version, not brand
Both devices are doing the same basic magic trick: they intercept the game while it’s running and rewrite values in memory—health, money, items, flags, all that good stuff.
And here’s why the naming is such a mess: Datel made Action Replay, and InterAct rebranded Action Replay as “GameShark” in North America back in the day. So “GameShark” doesn’t automatically tell you what format you’re dealing with. The version does.
If your code fails silently, think “wrong translator,” not “I am doomed.”
The 5 minute checklist before you spiral
Before you start doom googling “why don’t cheats work,” do this in order (I’m bossy about this because it saves actual hours):
- Confirm the platform. GBA, DS, PS2, etc. Same looking code on the wrong system = nope.
- Look at the code’s shape. Length/layout tells you the “family.”
- Match your game region/revision. NTSC vs PAL (and different revisions) can change addresses. The code can be “right” and still do absolutely nothing.
- Check what your device/emulator actually accepts. Some are picky. Some are secretly picky.
- Test one code at a time. Not because I’m boring, but because enabling 12 cheats at once is how you summon crashes.
This is basically “make sure you’re using the right charger.” It might plug in, but it’s not charging anything.
Code format 101: count it like you’re reading a label on mystery leftovers
When I say “format,” I mostly mean: what the code looks like on the page.
Ignore spaces when you count—spaces are just there to make it readable.
Here’s the quick Rosetta Stone:
- 16 hex characters + 16 hex characters (usually spaced like this):
XXXXXXXX YYYYYYYY
This is common for GBA and DS… but (and this is the whole problem) multiple versions use this exact look. - 12 characters, usually no space:
XXXXXXXXXXXX
This is typically CodeBreaker / GameShark SP style on GBA. - DS Action Replay “write” codes often look like:
22085A50 00000001
Same visual length, different system rules.
The most common trap: GBA Action Replay v3/v4 codes look identical to v1/v2 codes. Same length. Same spacing. Same vibe. But the scrambling is different, so a v3/v4 code entered into a v1/v2 device usually = accepted politely, does nothing rudely.
So if you take one thing from this post, let it be: same length doesn’t mean same language.
Okay, so what formats actually play nice together?
Here’s the simplified compatibility that saves a ton of guesswork:
- GameShark Advance + Action Replay v1/v2 (GBA): basically interchangeable. Same general 16 character style.
- Action Replay v3/v4 (GBA): looks the same as v1/v2 but isn’t. If your 16 character code “should work” but doesn’t, this mismatch is the #1 suspect.
- CodeBreaker / GameShark SP (GBA): the 12 character crew. You can’t mix these with 16 character GBA codes without converting.
If you’re staring at an unlabeled code list (classic internet), and it’s a 16 character GBA code that won’t work, I usually try v1/v2 first simply because it’s so common—then I move to converting/testing for v3/v4.
Real hardware check: does it even fit in the slot?
I know this sounds obvious, but I have watched people (including me, once, in a moment of optimism) buy the right code device for the wrong physical universe.
- Original DS + DS Lite have that glorious GBA slot on the bottom. That’s where GBA GameShark/AR cartridges go.
- DSi and all 3DS models removed the GBA slot entirely. So if you bought a GBA cheat cart for a DSi… I’m sorry. I wish I could hand you a refund and a snack.
For DS family Action Replay carts, the device generation matters too (DS vs DSi vs 3DS). If it’s the wrong one, it’s not a “settings” problem—it’s a “this does not go here” problem.
Emulators: convenient, powerful, and occasionally dramatic
Emulators are amazing, but they can also be like: “I accept cheats.” (And then refuse to clarify which kind for Silver emulator setup fixes.)
A few common realities:
- Some emulators accept multiple formats (RAW, CodeBreaker, some AR/GameShark)… but not all versions.
- Some are weird about spacing. If your code isn’t taking, try it with spaces exactly as written, then try removing spaces.
- Some treat all 16 character GBA codes as one specific AR version. Which means perfectly good v1/v2 codes can fail unless converted. Yes, it’s as annoying as it sounds.
If you’re using PS2 emulation: a lot of setups want RAW style cheats via specific files (like .pnach in PCSX2), or they want you to convert to a CodeBreaker friendly format for patching. Translation: PS2 is its own ecosystem. Don’t try to brute force it with random GameShark formatting and vibes.
Converting codes: the part that sounds scary but isn’t
Before you convert anything, I always check GameHacking.org because sometimes (miracle of miracles) the code you want is already posted in multiple formats with labels. Copy/paste and move on with your life.
If you do need to convert:
- AR Crypt is great for RAW/GameShark/Action Replay conversions (including AR v3/v4 situations).
- Omniconvert handles a wider buffet (GameShark, CodeBreaker, Xploder, AR MAX, etc.).
You paste code → select source format → select target format → convert → test.
The only “hard” part is correctly identifying what you started with, which… yep… is why we just did the whole character count detective routine.
The usual reasons cheats misbehave (and how to un-mess them)
- Code is accepted but nothing happens: wrong version/format, wrong region, or wrong platform. For unlabeled 16 character GBA codes, try v1/v2 assumptions first, then conversion for v3/v4.
- Your game freezes or crashes: you’ve got conflicting codes (two writing to the same address), or you turned on too many at once. Enable cheats one at a time until you find the troublemaker. (Yes, this is tedious. No, there is no faster way that doesn’t end in tears.)
- Works on your friend’s copy but not yours: region/revision mismatch. Same title doesn’t always mean same memory map.
- Pokémon “Bad Egg” nightmares: some cheats can corrupt data and spread weirdness through your boxes. If you see a Bad Egg, stop using codes immediately. This is one of those “close the laptop like it’s haunted” moments.
How risky is the cheat you’re trying?
Not all cheats are created equal. Some are a gentle nudge. Some are a cannonball into your save file.
- Usually lower risk: money, item counts, simple stat tweaks. These tend to write straightforward values.
- Higher risk: walk through walls, story triggers, event flags, “save editing” style codes. These can softlock you or corrupt a save.
And here’s my one non-negotiable, said with love: make a backup save before you start experimenting with the higher risk stuff. Future you deserves that safety net.
If your codes are failing silently, don’t take it personally. Half the battle is realizing you’re not “doing it wrong”—you’re just trying to make two incompatible formats pretend they’re best friends. Once you match the right code to the right version (or convert it), GameShark codes for Pokémon Silver go from “why won’t you WORK” to “oh no, I have unlimited money and no self control.”
